Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
